Festival of Dussehra
This hugely popular festival falls on the 10th day of the waxing
moon during the Hindu month of Ashvin (around September or October). A
fascinating collection of mythological legends and regional tales are
embroidered around Dussehra. On this day, Rama, the god-king and hero of the
great Hindu epic, Ramayana, killed the unrighteous Ravana, the 10-headed
demon king of Lanka who had abducted Rama’s wife, Sita.
It is believed that Lord Rama’s brother Lakshmana, along with an army of
monkeys, fought a colossal battle that lasted 10 days. Rama, who was a
devout believer of Durga, the Goddess of War, prayed to her for the first
nine days of battle and killed the evil Ravana on the 10th day.
He shot Ravana with a bow that pierced his navel. Out flowed the nectar of
immortality that was stored in a pot in his navel, thus destroying his
invincibility. Ravana’s own brother Vibhishana (being the sensible one, he
had switched sides) had divulged this secret to Rama. Rama also slew
Ravana’s brother Kumbhkarna (more famous for maintaining a lifestyle worthy
of a record in the Guinness Book – he hibernated for six months at a stretch
each year!). Lakshmana killed Ravana’s son, Meghnath. and Dussehra is the
festival that commemorates this triumph of Good over Evil. To this day Rama
Lila (the enactment of the Ramayana, or literally the saga of Rama) is
staged in towns and villages across the length and breadth of the country.
Another legend that is linked to Dussehra is that of the Goddess Durga
slaying the buffalo-demon, Mahishasura. According to popular mythology, the
gods were compelled to grant Mahishasura indomitable powers for his
unparalleled meditation. As expected, the omnipotent buffalo-demon
Mahishasura raised hell at the gates of heaven, astounding the gods with his
mammoth dominion. The infuriated gods then created Durga. It is believed
that Durga was actualised by the combined effort of all deities. Durga
possesses a weapon of each god and is said to be more powerful than all of
them put together.
In Bengal the festival is known as Durga Puja and is the single most
important festival for the Bengalis. But that is another story.
The highlight of Dussehra is Ram Lila. It is enacted for 10 days to mark the
10-day battle fought between Rama and Ravana. Ram Lila is generally held in
large open grounds that come alive with brightly-lit stalls, rickety giant
wheels that might fall apart any minute but never do, merry-go-rounds,
brightly-painted manually run mini giant wheels with bucket seats for
children. All this is very reminiscent of a country fair. Gigantic effigies
of Ravana, Kumbhkarna and Meghnath are erected on the fairgrounds. The
grotesque and colourful effigies, generally filled with crackers, are set
ablaze on Dussehra, or the 10th day of Ram Lila. Huge crowds
gather around the burning effigies to enjoy the spectacle. Children are
especially delighted at the sight and shoot arrows into the exploding
effigies.
Ram Lila is generally held in the evenings, and year after year, people
flock in huge numbers to watch the saga unfold, yet once again. In ancient
times when it was considered demeaning for women to go up on stage, men
performed the female roles. This still happens in most parts of India.
Needless to say, the most effeminate and ‘beautiful’ boy is handpicked to
enact the role of Sita.
After the Ram Lila and the burning of the effigies of Ravana, Kumbhakarna
and Meghnath (right down to their curly moustaches), the stars of the night
– Rama, Sita and Lakshmana are taken around in a huge chariot. Crowds of
people shouting Jai Shri Ram (Victory to Rama) join the procession. (The
processions of Mysore in Karnataka, and Ahmedabad in Gujarat are especially
spectacular).
The stars are driven right up to their doorsteps, and India wakes up to a
new day and the business of making a living. In a small town in Uttar
Pradesh, Rama goes to work like the rest of us. But come September and he
will again be god.
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